Make a Break for Riviera Maya, Mexico

Mexico’s Riviera Maya coastline stretches approximately 88 miles from the bohemian flair of Puerto Morelos to Sian Ka’an, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and includes Playa del Carmen, Xcaret, Akumal, Xel-há, Tulum and Coba, one of the most beautiful Mayan ruins.

During a four-day excurision to Riviera Maya, my traveling companion, Stella, and I spent two days touring the coastline. This was our experience...

Day One:
En route to our hotel, we stopped at Banyan Tree Mayakoba, a wonderful new Riviera Maya resort. Banyan Tree celebrated its first year in March, but already has received numerous honors including No. 1 ranking from Trip Advisor’s 2010 Travelers Choice Awards in the category of Top 10 Hotels for Romance in the Caribbean & Mexico. The award is well-deserved. Banyan Tree is not just a resort. It’s a haven. A secluded, romantic retreat designed to inspire passion and enhance intimacy between couples. The property employs its own Romance Director and the one-bedroom villas feature outdoor oversized bathtubs. Stella and I were tempted to act like a couple, but the joke had the capacity to turn weird when our guide produced the Romance Book. Yes, a book dedicated to romance, as if Banyan Tree doesn’t already exhale sensuality. The romance department created a variety of opportunities for couples to spice up their vacations in and out of their villas. Select an outdoor bath and the romancer’s will adorn the tub with rose petals, decorate your room with scented candles and deliver your choice of wine or champagne. Other intimate moments include a seductive belly dance performance or lesson; a daring couple’s photo session; and a clothing-optional charcoal drawing by a local artist.

During lunch at Sands, Banyan Tree’s poolside restaurant, we enjoyed fresh salsa and guacamole, tacos, flautas, and champagne sorbet. Sorbet that tastes like champagne! We were in heaven. Did I mention the spa? Stunning. The staff had to pry our tall bodies from the massage beds where we flung ourselves like insolent tantrum-throwing children whose parents insist they must leave RIGHT NOW. Stella resolved to convince her boyfriend to take her back to Banyan Tree. I resolved to find a boyfriend to take me. One with a thick wallet. Luxury comes with a price, and Banyan Tree’s becomes steep quickly. Garden Pool Villa’s start at $575 per night for two guests, while 3-bedroom Beach Front Pool Villa’s weigh in at $3,425 per night and house up to six guests.

Later that evening, we walked along Playa del Carmen’s La Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue). Blocks of shops and restaurants surround the tourist-filled streets, each offering the “best food” and “best prices.” At the behest of our guide, Adriana, we stopped at Hotel Reina Roja for a tour and dinner. If Cinemax built a hotel, it would be called Reina Roja. Pulsating with energy, your heart immediately beats faster once you enter the cozy hotel, or maybe increased heart rate is the effect of too many bright red lights. Reina Roja virtually bleeds red. Nevertheless, the property accomplished its mission to be the most distinctive hotel, bar and restaurant in Playa del Carmen.

Much to our surprise, we saw mannequins in various stages of undress, some hanging from rafters, some wearing dog collars, some positioned provocatively on beds, decorating the lobby. There was even a mannequin seated at a table in the restaurant.

Even more surprising was the manager’s pride when describing the hotel’s 63 rooms, five theme suites and an after-hours room with a peep hole. Yes, a peep hole, which can be left open or closed depending on a guest’s preference. If the elevator photos showcasing a buxom woman’s chest, butt and legs didn’t turn us on, the peep hole certainly did. Oh wait, we’re women. Wrong demographic. Where were the photos of hot, barely dressed men? I can appreciate the artistic beauty of a naked woman, but throw in wall-to-ceiling cheaply posed snap shots and a peep hole, and I’m out.

Despite the bizarre scenery and the sensation of being watched, we gratefully enjoyed dinner at Reina Roja Restaurant, which serves a mix of casual Mexican and international dishes along with excellent sangria and margarita’s. You might also try the Reina Roja signature drink. I don’t think it automatically comes with a mannequin lap dance, but you can ask.

Day Two:
Rain and thick humidity lulled us awake on the second day of our visit. Rain or no rain, we were scheduled to visit Tulum’s Mayan archeological site and visit we did. Fortunately, we had a dedicated tour guide at the ruins who walked us around and explained, in detail, the history and significance of most of the ruins’ buildings. The rain let up near the end of the tour, but the damage to our ankles had already been done by the swarms of mosquito’s blanketing the site. For anyone interested in Mayan history, archaeological ruins, or history, in general, the Tulum ruins are a must-see. The site is the only large-scale Mayan ruin on the coast and rests on a bluff overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

Next, we toured Tulum’s Hotel Zone – a stretch of Riviera Maya coastline filled with boutique hotels. First stop: La Zebra Beach Cantina y Cabanás, a small property with 15 suites, cabanas, and rooms; a private swimming pool and a Mexican cantina and bar. La Zebra’s charm stems from its size and intimate setting. The staff knows every guest by name and provides attentive service unmatched by sprawling, overpopulated resorts. The beachfront setting allows one to relax on the beach or in a hammock and enjoy the cooling breeze. La Zebra’s rooms do not have air conditioning, which I immediately considered a thumbs down; however, the close proximity to the ocean allows a breeze to filter through the property day and night.

Down the road from La Zebra sits Ana y Jose Charming Hotel & Spa, somewhat larger with 23 suites and cottages, and Coqui Coqui Spa, smaller with only 5 rooms. Both properties share La Zebra’s quaint hospitality and desire for service excellence. Coqui Coqui is a little too quaint for my tastes as Stella and I felt gigantic climbing the narrow steps and pounding through the small rooms. The spa is small as well—encompassing only two rooms, but enlists talented therapists. The Coqui Coqui Massage includes a Mayan Clay Facial. Why don’t all massages include facials?

Even though Tropical Storm Alex dumped rain on us every day of our trip, Stella and I thoroughly enjoyed Riviera Maya. Each area offers a different environment, perspective and cultural experience apart from the party atmosphere of Cancun. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, but for travelers who wish to explore sights off the beaten path, visit Riviera Maya. From the magical elegance of Banyan Tree Mayakoba to the flashy bawdiness of Hotel Reina Roja and everything in between, Riviera Maya has something to suit nearly everyone’s desire.

Don’t Miss
Snorkel and Scuba Dive: The Great Maya Reef, the northern hemisphere’s largest coral reef, faces Riviera Maya’s coast providing snorkelers and scuba divers a magical underwater opportunity to discover hundreds of marine species.

The Mexico Spectacular Show at Xcaret’s eco-archaeological park.

Upcoming Events:
- 4th Annual Riviera Maya Underground Film Festival, Oct 13-17th
- 8th Annual Jazz Fest, Nov 24-28th
- DJ Fest 2010, Dec 30th

What to Know
Many hotels do not provide shuttle service to-and-from the airport. Cabs are expensive; however public transportation is cheap. Car rental is also an option.

For the mildest weather, visit November through February when the humidity eases and the temperature hovers in the low-to-mid 70’s.

For more information visit www.rivieramaya.com.

Photo courtesy of Banyan Tree Mayakoba